Thurs. Dec. 14, 2017:
San Antonio to Fredericksburg, TX:
In the night I had gotten up to go to the bathroom and on the way I almost walked into the mirror that was stupidly right beside the door. I had finally been getting a good night’s sleep until at about 7am I was rudely awoken by really loud drilling noise. It sounded like the entire city’s road crew were working just outside our hotel. After a minute or so it stopped and I could hear a lady in the courtyard by our door yelling. It was a guy with a leafblower and thankfully he stopped.
Our hotel had a late checkout meaning we did not have to worry about gathering everything up and leaving it with the concierge. We took the River Walk to the Alamo. All week long I had been making forget jokes about it. It was right downtown and had free admission. There was an exhibit about Bowie knives and the guy that made them famous. I learned about his crazy fight on a beach and a great new name for knives: Arkansas toothpick. The one place where I wanted to take photos, the church, was the one place you weren’t allowed to. All in all there wasn’t much of the ruins to see and we finished in about an hour. There was a volunteer in the church that loved Brent’s glow-in-the-dark alien from Toy Story shoes and wouldn’t stop talking about them. There was another volunteer at the Bowie exhibit that was just way too psyched about the exhibit.
We still had time before our lunch reservation at Boudreau’s On The River. We stopped in at the mall across the street from the Alamo because I had not packed enough clothes. We were supposed to go home Friday night and then up to Collingwood the next morning but now it was looking like we would get picked up from the airport on Friday night. It was a very sad and empty mall. The vendors were desperate. I found PINK inside a Victoria’s Secret, even though it wasn’t even listed on the mall directory. On the way out of the mall we passed through H&M where I impulsively bought a $5 t-shirt, also needed for the weekend.
We were unsure where the entrance to the restaurant was from the River Walk so we looked for the other, street-level entrance. Except it led us to an elevator, taking us down the River Walk level and now we had to enter through the back of the restaurant and walk all the way through to the front. It was awkward because we were the only people there (good thing we had made a reservation). We split a Texas plate that had a delicious (but too spicy) sausage, at least it was good for my sinuses. Brent had the chicken enchilada which was good but nowhere near as good as the blue crab tostada I had ordered. We did not swap plates halfway through. It arrived in a corn taco shell bowl with melted cheese on top. I really could’ve used a demonstration of how to eat it. I just hacked at it with my fork, breaking off pieces of the taco shell and scooping the contents with it. The prickly pear margarita I had was awesome and a perfect pairing. I was way too full to eat the useless salad my tostada sat atop. We were sitting on the patio and it was nice because they had heaters all around. Plus it was a warmer day.
Walking back along the other side of the river I noticed a sign that said Ben & Jerry’s ice cream. I got way too excited about. Ice cream was no good for a cold (especially when coughing really bad and with swollen lymph nodes), except in lifting the spirits and so we climbed the stairs to the second level of shops. I tried a new ice cream flavour they had: caramel with marshmallow and chocolate chunks. It was good, but it was no Phish Food. The ice cream was too frozen and really hard to eat, meaning I was forced to eat slowly and savour each bite instead of the usual which is just wolfing it down in a few bites.
Our first stop of the hill country tour was Bandera, known for being a cowboy town. On the way we stopped at a post office so I could mail my postcards but the line was so long and while standing there I realized I would arrive home before my postcards so I may as well just hand them to everyone instead. We drove past a farm that had a bunch of goats and one lone donkey hanging out amidst them. We walked down the main stretch of Bandera, which is to say one sidewalk with four shops and a closed café. That sealed it, I could never imagine living in Bandera. What kind of a town was this?! There was nothing to see, not surprising for a town with a population under 900. That is not a typo. We stopped in at the liquor store but the selection was awful and they did not sell singles.
On the drive to the Western Art Museum (or cowboy art museum as we still kept calling it) in Kerrville I was deteriorating and fast. The inside of my nose burned, I could not believe how often I was having to blow my nose. It felt futile and pointless. Add on top of that the fact that I was (shocker!) dehydrated. In the parking lot of the museum there were a ton (more than 10) deer grazing. They looked up at the car and kept going about their business. I was amazed at the deer population in Texas. I have never in my life seen so many deer (dead and alive). During that trip alone I may have seen more than during all other trips combined.
It was awkward when we got inside. Four ladies had just gotten there ahead of us and the docent was eager to give us all a tour. As we paid for our tickets they patiently waited. They continued to wait as the lady at the front desk told us all about the wonderful new ceiling (or was it floor). It was both. We cut her off in order to let the docent know that we were not interested in a tour and that they could go ahead. The museum was a lot less cowboy-y than I had expected, especially given the former name of Cowboy Art Museum. But it did live up it’s new name so it all makes sense in the end. There were a lot of beautiful paintings featuring cows and donkeys. It was a well-curated collection, small but well presented (we were out of there in 35 minutes). At the museum I discovered that I really like cow paintings. I was tempted to buy a small painting from the special exhibition but it would have been a pain to pack it in my luggage and then worry about it. I was already worried about the desktop fountain I bought for Camilla.
We drove by the main street in Kerville but there was nothing to see. It was a much bigger town and didn’t have the quaint small main street. To finish off our tour of hill country we drove along the Willow City Loop. We were the only car on the road. At times it felt like we were trespassing on private roads. It was just ranches, hills, valleys and eventually cows as far as the eye could see. I could imagine what it must be like when the flowers are all in bloom (aka the main attraction). We saw a few wild turkeys in a field. One ranch had a cowboy boot on each post of the fence. There was so much cow shit on the road though. It was fun to slow down by the cows and roll down the windows to get their attention. They would stare back, mid-chew, and immediately go back to eating.
We took a short break in the hotel, we were staying in Fredericksburg, another small town in hill country. I drank my Newton’s Folly cider (winner for best name of a cider I’ve ever had) and watched my go-to TV show, Say Yes to the Dress. Before dinner we went for a walk along the main stretch of town. There were so many quaint little country shops. Except it quickly dawned on us that every other shop was either a wine shop (offering tastings), an art gallery (serving wine) or a shop that also sold wine in addition to country knick-knacks. It was really weird but soon we realized that you were allowed to open-carry and drink. We went to the park to see the Christmas display. On the way I noticed the beautiful-exterior library. It just so happened to be next door to the town courts. Of course I made a joke about throwing the book. There was even an ice rink in the park for those desperate for wintertime activities.
We had dinner at the Fredericksburg Brewing Co. because it was a mix of German and Tex-Mex offerings. To start we split a warm pretzel with grainy mustard, an oft forgotten and under-rated food item. It might actually be one of my favourite foods., I ordered the chicken-fried steak as it was my turn, Brent had ordered it last time at Threadgill’s. In case I had forgotten I was in Texas, my plate reminded me of that fact. The chicken-fried steak was easily close to 2 pounds and way bigger than my head. Brent had ordered the schnitzel, which inexplicably came topped with ham and melted cheese. All of the schnitzels on offer were like that. What’s wrong with just a good ol’ schnitzel? Why pile stuff on top? Was this an American thing? I had ordered a glass of Merlot but soon after I realized I had meant to order a Texas Merlot, not a house Merlot. I can only assume that their house wine was also a Texas wine. Apparently Texas wine is a thing. Who knew. It pairs well with the Texas pour. Just filling a wine glass, regardless of how many ounces that is. That should have been a clue to as the anticipated size of my main course. I made a huge dent in the chicken-fried steak. It was ok, just too much food, and honestly, I would rather just have steak or fried chicken. Why combine the elements of two great dishes into one mediocre one? On the side I had ordered mashed potatoes (always a great side) and a fruit cup. The fruit cup ended up being my saviour when the meat got to be too much. Plus, I had not eaten fresh fruit in days. The pretzel won hands down as the best dish.
Walking back we stopped at a bar to check out the selection. Brent got a double IPA to go. I was tempted by the ACE pear cider but I felt like I’d already had so much (that pour had been at least two glasses) and I was planning on taking more DayQuil. I had been silly to think I could go off it. Brent also bought a beer from the front desk at our hotel. (See? It was a weird town). He asked about soda and the lady said it was free in the breakfast room. I had been hoping to get some tea while I was in there but they only had black tea which had caffeine. Instead I got Mountain Dew- forgetting that it has caffeine in it.
There was a scary wolf spider in the bathroom but Brent got it. I had to wash my hair, so it was going to be an early pajama night. I chanced upon the brilliant idea of sucking on a lozenge while in the hot shower. It was life altering. We ended the night watching Full House and Bob’s Burgers while eating the Reese’s clusters and munching on Speculoos cookies.