Thurs. Sept. 15, 2022 East Hampton to NYC
I was rudely awoken before 8am by the jackass wielding a jackhammer. I tried to sleep some more but only made it half an hour. I went downstairs for breakfast. Really, I just needed coffee. Brent stayed for a bit then ordered an Uber to take him to the private airport because that was the only place to rent a car. I stayed behind and read my book on the covered patio, eating pastries. At 9:07am I got a text from Brent: the car rental place doesn’t open until 10am, Google was wrong. Eh, more reading for me. Also, I was kind of stuck because Brent had taken the room key.
We drove to Sag Harbour, parked at the marina and had a look around. We went through the quaint downtown, but it was packed. There was a giant yacht at the marina and Brent googled the name. Turns out it’s some millionaire guy’s yacht and it costs $2 million a year to maintain. It was enormous.
We had lunch at the Candy Kitchen in Bridgehampton. It was an old school diner and I could picture it being super busy during peak summer season. Brent had an egg cream, it was listed in his “1001 Foods” book. I had a sip. Blech. Who ever thought of mixing seltzer water and ice cream?? Why?? Brent had a turkey club, which is just another WHY recipe. Why the extra slice of bread?? So unnecessary. I opted for the classics: a lime rickey (which is actually cherry soda) and a cheeseburger. I couldn’t not get a slice of pie, and they had their own in-house made ice cream so of course I got it a la mode: a slice of strawberry-rhubarb pie with a scoop of maple walnut. It actually paired quite nicely. Even if I was a little cheesed, the crust was more of a shortbread! I was hoping for flaky and buttery. Ah well, it was still delicious.
We drove to Montauk Point, the tip of Long Island. It seems to be an anniversary tradition to go to ocean-side vistas? This was the second year in a row. It was more than I had expected. I thought there’d be at most a picnic bench and a far-off light house. Instead, we got to visit the historic lighthouse! At the giftshop there was a sign saying that washrooms were for customers only, good luck enforcing that rule. It was not set up like that, we could easily go around. It wasn’t even past the ticket booth which was in the opposite direction. We did end up paying admission. We had to climb a narrow skinny staircase to the top. The base of the lighthouse was a museum about the construction. We had pretty views, including a close view of the lighthouse light bulb. Down below you could see the brackish water where fresh met salty. Off in the distance was Rhode Island. The gift shop was not good, no coffee and no magnets.
On the way up I had seen a roadside restaurant called The Clam Bar. This was my best chance for Manhattan clam chowder, I had yet to see it on a menu anywhere. What a damn confused soup it is. Is it tomato? Fish? If I add vodka, is it a Bloody Mary? It is surely not a chowder. It was not filling enough and just not that good. I would rather have bouillabaisse or tomato soup or regular clam chowder. Not this monstrosity. Pick a lane! It also makes for a terrible car snack. Miraculously, I neither burnt myself nor did I spill any. We returned our car at the private airport. While we waited for our Uber, Brent grabbed a free can of Coca Cola from the complimentary fridge. I passed on the coffee, no idea how long it sat out on the patio in the carafe for. Watching a helicopter land was so confusing, I always imagined them just dropping down, not gliding in.
In the car, the driver asked us how our flight was. It was awkward. We were on our way from a private airport to a train station? And I smelled like onions (lunch) and tomatoes (snack). It was rather odd. We bought our tickets at the station and then walked to Starbucks. I was in desperate need of caffeine. I got there just ahead of the rush and still it took a while. Not sure why, all they had to do was mix the concentrate with water and shake it. I figured a grande mango dragonfruit refresher would be enough to keep me awake. It was not. While we waited for the train, Brent walked to the nearby liquor store and got some beers. They didn’t have any ciders, but I would be able to find them in the city later on. He made it back with 3 minutes to spare before the train arrived. I tried to read on the train but I kept falling asleep. Eventually I finished The Cartographers but I was too tired to go back to the other book. When we got off the train at Jamaica station there was a train across the platform going to Penn Station. We ran for it. It had been a day of perfect timing.
At Penn Station we had a toilet break. The train over from East Hamptons didn’t have a bathroom in our car, it was in the next one over and confusing to get to. We walked south to Scarr’s Pizza for a modern take on the “classic” and “authentic” New York slice. On the way we passed by the edge of Chinatown. The first liquor & wine store we stopped at had limited selection, mostly of Cutwater cocktails I’d already had. Surely there’d be more. Two more stores and all they had were multipacks. By the fourth one, Brent pointed out that if I got a multipack, I could just give the rest to Cait & John. I completely forgot about that. The fourth store was in a university/student-heavy neighbourhood and finally I was in luck. We walked by so many gallery openings, apparently, we were in a hip artsy area now.
There was a line at Scarr’s but it moved quickly. Our only option was cheese slices. But when I asked, he said he had some “grandma” slices in the oven and ready soon. These were more deep-dish style and had pepperoni. I was fine waiting a few minutes, we devoured our cheese slices while we waited. The cheese slices were better than the “grandma” slice. They were both good, but not as good as Joe’s on Bleeker. The “grandma” slice had a tomato sauce that had a lot of nice herbs in it, but we wanted that classic NY slice.
We were pretty far south. You could tell we were in an older and once poorer neighbourhood (think: tenements) because the streets were much narrower. I recognized the name Orchard St, was it where The Tenement Museum was? Yes, and we walked by it on our way back. We didn’t realize how far south we had gone, until we ended up at an intersection where 1rst and 1rst should be. At first, we weren’t sure if this was the spot. I noticed a restaurant called One By One and I pointed it out, we must be close! And then we saw the intersection: 1rst and 1rst! The nexus of the universe! Seinfeld! We both excitedly started taking pictures of it and a guy asked us what were so excited for. For once, we were the oddballs.
At the liquor store I had grabbed three cans, two small ones. The first one was a lemon cranberry cosmopolitan: the perfect walking drink, the can was red and small. I ducked into a CVS and got marshmallow-flavoured Halloween mini Kit-Kats, a Milky Way and extreme Sour Patch Kids. My second walking drink was also a small red can, a cranberry and gin cocktail. A business-looking man in a suit walked past us, and he was just farting so hard. So many farts. We walked by a dog that seemed to be all on his own and as I started looking for the owner I saw the guy just standing there, and I swear he looked like TJ Thyne from Bones.
We were staying at The Lombardy hotel. It was odd, the whole bathroom was mirrored. I did not need this in my life. No one needs to see themselves sitting on the toilet. My pen finally ran out, thankfully this hotel kept them right by the bedside. The Cazadores spicy margarita was the perfect drink to the end the night while watching Jeopardy! I hadn’t gotten any Cutwater cocktails because I figured I could get them at the baseball game the next night. 23,000 steps.